5 Health Mistakes Dog Owners Make

Feature by Wendy C. Fries

Sometimes, pet owners with the best of intentions still make serious mistakes when it comes to the health of their dog.
Here's what top veterinarians had to say about mistakes owners make that lead to ailments they often see and how you can avoid them.

Mistake 1: Not Getting Preventive Care
Houston’s Canine Health Institute associate medical director Adrianne Brode, DVM, says neglecting preventive health care is the most common mistake dog owners make.
"Taking your dog in to the vet for regular examinations, giving heartworm prevention, and getting your dog the appropriate vaccinations and deworming can prevent many diseases," Brode says. For example, heartworm disease can be difficult to treat and ultimately fatal to dogs, but it's easily preventable.
Oregon veterinarian Marla J. McGeorge, DVM, says yearly exams help your vet catch problems early. Instead of coping with lengthy treatment of an advanced or chronic condition, your vet can catch issues in their beginning stages when care may mean cure. Early care saves you money in the long run.
5 Health Mistakes Dog Owners Make
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Mistake 1: Not Getting Preventive Care continued...
Simply getting your dog vaccinated isn't the same as a full physical exam. Among other things, a comprehensive checkup may include:
Blood work
A fecal examination for intestinal parasites
Examination of a dog’s gums, heart, lungs, teeth, eyes, and ears
Talk to your veterinarian to learn more.
Mistake 2: Neglecting Dental Care
Shawn Messonnier, DVM, author of the Natural Health Bible for Dogs and Cats, says neglecting regular dental care is also common. Dogs need dental care for the same reason we do: to prevent gum disease.
As with human teeth, plaque forms on a dog's teeth after eating. If left alone, the plaque builds, causing inflammation, decay, and eventually bone and tooth loss. And while this silent war goes on in your dog's mouth, she’s probably experiencing pain you don't notice because dogs, like cats, instinctively hide pain.
Gum disease is five times more common in dogs than it is in people. But it's easy to prevent and to treat with dental care that includes:
Daily brushings
Good quality food
Regular oral X-rays, exams, and cleanings
Safe teeth-cleaning treats and chew toys

Mistake 3: Overfeeding
If too much love is ever a bad thing, it's when we show it in the form of too many tasty treats. "Rewarding and loving our dogs with food leads to obesity," Brode says. Overweight or obese dogs are at higher risk for arthritis and other orthopedic issues as well as other health problems.
It can be difficult enough to balance your own diet let alone that of your dog. Your vet can help you select a good, high-quality food for your dog and give you tips on exercise and treats. You don't have to stop sharing occasional goodies with your pooch, as long as 90% to 95% of your dog's diet is healthy and well balanced.
Mistake 4: Sharing Medication
Another dangerous health mistake owners make is giving dogs human medications. "Pain medications like Advil or Tylenol can be very toxic to dogs," Brode says. In addition, there is a host of seemingly benign human drugs that can pose grave health risks for pets.
Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), such as ibuprofen, are the most common cause of pet poisoning in small animals, according to the ASPCA. Even small doses can be toxic. Antidepressants, muscle relaxers, decongestants, vitamin D derivatives, oral diabetes treatments, and other common human drugs can all pose risks to pets, ranging from seizures to coma to death.
Always keep medication secure -- preferably in a high, locked cabinet -- and never discard medication where pets or children can get to it. If you’re worried that your dog may have gobbled up an over-the-counter or prescription pill you dropped -- or worse, taken an entire bottle from the trash -- don't hesitate. Immediately call the Animal Poison Control Center 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435.
Mistake 5: Delaying Critical Care
We often delay medical care for ourselves, waiting for a bump, pain, or rash to go away. So it may seem natural to do the same thing with our dog.
Unfortunately, dogs don't have the words to let us know exactly what they're feeling. Your canine companion could be in pain, sick, and even gravely ill -- and chances are you wouldn't know it because of dogs’ instinct to hide infirmity.
Don't wait to see if a health problem in your dog gets better on its own. Call your vet if your dog isn't eating or is eating less, is vomiting, seems lethargic, has diarrhea or fever, or just doesn't seem well.

TRAINING
3 Reasons It's a Must to Read Your Dog's Body Language

Dogs communicate with their faces, ears, eyes, eyebrows, tails -- their entire bodies. Over the years, I have learned to “listen” to my dogs, to the extent possible.

By: Ann Allums

In December, I thought it would be fun to get a picture of my dogs with Santa. A local pet-friendly establishment was offering photos, and when it was our turn, I walked my dogs, Sylvie and Sarge, toward the man in the red suit.


The author with Sarge and Sylvie.
Sylvie approached Santa with a loose body, relaxed wagging tail, and open mouth, her ears in a neutral position. Her body language said she was comfortable. On the other hand, Sarge’s body language communicated a different message. He cautiously approached with his head and tail lowered, and with his mouth closed, and as he got closer, the hair on his back raised. Sarge was saying, “I’m not comfortable with this strange bearded person in a furry suit.”

My “jolly routine” (speaking in an upbeat, happy manner) didn’t affect his emotional state, so rather than allow my dog to continue to be stressed and pushing him to accept something he was wary of, I calmly escorted my dogs away.


Sylvie kisses Sarge. They're both comfortable with this.
An important part of responsible pet ownership is understanding your dog’s body language. Dogs communicate with their faces, ears, eyes, eyebrows, tails -- their entire bodies. I have learned to “listen” to my dogs, to the extent possible, in every interaction with other dogs and people, including with myself. Here are several reasons for the importance of understanding dog body-language.


1. Understanding body language can keep everyone safe

We should understand dog body-language to help keep ourselves, our dogs, and other people and dogs safe. Every dog has the equivalent of a dangerous weapon in their mouth -- teeth. How they wield that weapon is affected by their genetics, environment, and training. Regardless, it is vital that we be able to read a dog to prevent and avoid potential conflict.

When Sarge’s hackles went up, I immediately felt a sense of urgency to diffuse the potential conflict. Rather than react in emotion, such as nervously apologizing to Santa or, worse, yelling at Sarge (which would just add more anxiety to the situation), I cheerily called Sarge to me (which we have practiced hundreds of times) and redirected him away from the situation. Not that Sarge has ever bitten, but I never want to push him into a situation where he felt like he didn’t have another other option. What if Santa had made a sudden movement, or moved his hand toward Sarge? With a dog already in an emotional state of caution, anything could tip the scales into further defensive action on the part of the dog.


Sarge visiting people at an assisted living center. He's smiling and relaxed here, unlike with Santa.
There was a time when I misunderstood dog body-language and I missed the precursors of aggressive behavior, which later developed into a serious behavior problem. Had I been aware that my dog was feeling uncomfortable or behaving defensively, I could have addressed the root of the problem with help from a trainer before the behavior escalated. Trainer Sara Reusche writes, “When a dog bites, he’s often told us in every way he could how upset he was, and been ignored. Sometimes a bite is the only way he has of letting us know what’s wrong.”

2. It can reduce stress

It is important to understand your dog’s body language so that he is not exposed to unnecessary amounts of stress. Just as with people, stress in dogs can cause health and behavioral problems.


Sylvie's yawn may indicate she's stressed.
There are many specific ways that dogs display stress: a yawn, a lip lick, sweaty paws, dilated pupils, freezing, food refusal. When I recognize these signs, I try to determine the cause of the stress and possibly deal with it through training or management to help my dogs relax. Through training, I can help my dog change his underlying emotional reaction toward something or someone, and through management, I can minimize my dog’s stressors.

3. It helps with communication

Understanding your dog’s body language is key to your relationship with your dog. Relationships are built on and sustained by communication. Communication goes both ways -- we should strive to “listen” to our dogs just as we want our dogs to listen to us. When my dog shakes off after I hug him, I should be aware that I just did something that made him uncomfortable. When entering a new place, if I notice that my dog suddenly moves slowly and has muscle bulges by his mouth and eye, I may have to adjust my pace or plans for the benefit of my dog.


Sylvie relaxes in the flowers.
Keep in mind that to dogs, vocal communication is secondary to body language, that is, they primarily communicate by body language. In dog training, we have a term called "trainer babble." These are all the words that dogs tune out, because they can only focus on so much at a time. If you are moving and talking at the same time, your dog is responding more to your body movement than to your words, because the movement is more salient, meaning it will overshadow your words.


Sarge, hanging out calmly at the assisted living center.
There are many good resources available for learning about the rich and complex language of dogs. Stanley Coren explains in his wonderful book How To Speak Dog about the multi-faceted forms of canine communication, and includes his version of a "Doggish Phrasebook." An excellent DVD on the subject is called What Is My Dog Saying? by Carol Byrnes.

The more we understand dog body-language, the better we will understand and appreciate these remarkable creatures.

Focus on the Positive

by Leah Roberts, Dog Willing Positive Training Solutions.



If your dog is behaving in a way you don't like, instead of asking, “How do I stop this?” the question should be “What would I like him to do instead?” All behavior has a purpose. First, determine what the dog gets out of the behavior. Then teach him a behavior you can accept to ask for what he wants.

For example, is he barking for attention? Teach him to come and sit in front of you with eye contact to ask for attention. Or does she beg for food at the table? Teach her to lie on a mat with a chewy during dinner and reward her with a tidbit from your plate when you are finished.



When your dog is behaving politely, make sure you reinforce him in a timely manner! It's easy to forget to acknowledge a dog who is sitting or lying down quietly. That will create a frustrated dog who doesn't know how to communicate with you and he will be likely to revert back to the unwanted behavior.

SOCIALIZATION is the process of introducing a puppy to the world in 
a way that will help him be confident and unafraid of people, places 
and things that he will encounter throughout his life.  The most critical 
socialization window occurs before the age of 12 weeks, and that 
window is considered to be closing by 5 months.  Generally the 
younger the puppy is when he is socialized, the more quickly and 
easily he gains confidence.  Waiting too long can result in a need for 
the more difficult process of rehabilitation instead of socialization.  
Most aggression issues are simply a result of inefficient socialization.
 
RULES OF SOCIALIZATION:
 
Each socialization exposure must be fun for your puppy.  If he is 
forced to confront fears he's not ready to handle, the process can 
backfire and create a fearful/aggressive response.  Go at his pace, 
and at a distance he feels safe.  Your puppy should be the one to 
initiate each approach to something new and be allowed to retreat 
when needed to feel safe.
 
Socialization includes generalization.  Though your puppy may be 
fine with the toddlers or dogs in your home, that does not mean he is 
fine with all children and dogs.  Even if he is in a class, he will need to 
meet new and different dogs and people, and in different places, after 
his classmates and their owners become familiar to him.  You need to 
continue to expose him to new things, places, and contexts to best 
generalize his confidence with new things.
 
Pair treats with exposures to make good associations.  If your 
puppy is worried about those children he sees running across the 
street, it can help if the sight of the children makes cheese suddenly 
appear.  Or if he doesn’t like her paws touched, a brief touch followed 
by a lick of peanut butter from a spoon can make paw touches easier 
to handle.  If he will not take food, that is a good indication that you 
need to back up and lower the intensity of the exposure with more 
distance or less pressure.
 
If your puppy seems to be fearful of certain things and doesn’t gain 
confidence quickly, please see a force-free trainer to help you.  
Remember that socialization is a time-sensitive procedure.
_
The Pet Professional Guild has given permission for active Guild 
members to use this educational piece in their businesses © 2012

http://www.petprofessionalguild.com/Resources/Documents/PPG-Client-Puppy-Socialization-Download.pdf

Does your dog bark or growl and lunge at other dogs while you’re walking him on a leash?

This is a very common problem in under-socialized, nervous or anxious dogs. Immediately when your dog sees another dog and barks, he gets an adrenaline reward.  Not only are  bark-and-lunge explosions stressful for you, but also for your dog. In addition, from your dog’s point of view the aggressive display seems to work pretty well–after all, the other dog always goes away.

That means every time your dog blows up, he becomes a little likelier to try the same tactic next time. So until you can get good professional help, keep your dog out of trouble as much as you can. Dogs have but two options. Flight or Fight: Flight is to run away or avoid, but this isn’t an option when on lead.  So the only option left is to fight, by barking and acting aggressively.

It’s best for your dog to avoid encounters altogether by teaching him to ignore other dogs completely when walking on leash, unless specifically stopped on cue, told to sit, and stay and wait for permission to approach and greet.  The absolutely more problematic, most difficult way for dogs to meet and greet is on leash.

Once a dog’s mind passes a certain level of arousal, he can’t hear you, everything is oblivious except the other dog. At his peak he may as well be deaf, will not eat treats and does not feel any tugging on the leash. He has become possessed.

He can’t learn a new behavior at his peak of arousal; his learning environment needs to be in your yard absent of any distractions.

If your dog could act naturally and calmly around other dogs he would.  But, he must be taught in the quiet of your own home and yard, without distractions.  Dogs need active behaviors they can perform in place of their usual bad behavior.

As you begin modifying his behavior, consider the following:

Treatment depends on how established this problem has become.
Teaching your dog to focus on you is vital.
Your dog should learn that when he’s on leash, he should walk past and ignore other dogs. There is no reason to meet and greet.
Teach a desirable alternate behavior. So it can’t be just the absence of the bad behavior, as dogs don’t understand voids.  You need to give him something else to do instead.
The new behavior must be ingrained into your dog’s head for at least several weeks before expecting him to be able to listen to you in the presence of another dog at a distance.
Reward the calm before the storm. Reward your dog before the barking starts and he may be able to happily walk past the distraction without reacting at all. By praising quiet, you may avoid noise all together.
Act the way you want your dog to act. If you want him to be relaxed, calm and happy – move, speak and touch him as if you are relaxed, calm and happy.
Try a Head Halter. These can be helpful when used properly and make on-leash management much easier on the dog and human. The way to use most head halters is to use a smooth upward pressure to stop forward movement and to help redirect the dog. Release all pressure immediately when the dog sits or calms.
Don’t set your dog up for failure. If you can avoid a situation that is likely to be a problem, avoid it. Turn around and go a different direction, walk a different route, or walk at a time of day when you won’t encounter your dog’s trigger. Repeating failure won’t help your dog improve.
Choke collars, pinch collars, and shock collars are designed to stop dogs from barking by causing pain. The dog might stop barking because it hurts, but this won’t decrease the dog’s frustration. In fact, the association with pain can cause the dog to DISLIKE other dogs and ultimately behave AGGRESSIVELY toward other dogs.
With patience, redirection, and praise, your dog can learn how to act appropriately when encountering other dogs during his walk.

NILIF (Nothing In Life Is Free) Training

By Honor Tarpenning, NextDayPets.com Staff

Nothing in Life Is Free is a training method based on the principle that all attention and rewards received by your dog should only be offered on the owner’s terms. NILIF means that the dog must work to receive affection, play, sustenance, and treats. This safe and non-confrontational manner of training teaches your dog that the owner is the alpha dog in the home and all good things in life come through the alpha. With the use of the NILIF technique, dogs become secure and comfortable in their place in the pack, and are thus more calm, balanced, submissive companions.

Does your dog jump up on the furniture at will? Does he paw, nose, and nudge you looking for pets and snuggles? Does he jump on you seeking attention? Does he beg when people are eating or even try to steal food? Does your dog refuse to come when he’s called, and generally ignore your commands? If any of these examples sound familiar, your dog is a perfect candidate for NILIF.

The greatest thing about NILIF is that there’s no specific process to follow or steps to memorize; you just have to change your perspective regarding the way you reward your dog, and act accordingly. You are the pack leader; the alpha dog. You control everything your dog does and receives. One of the simplest examples of this principle regards the dog who demands attention.

Imagine you’re sitting on the couch, relaxing. Your gaze is fixed on the tv and your hand rests lazily at your side. All of a sudden there is a dog next to you on the couch and a cold, wet nose nudging your hand. You automatically lift your hand and begin tenderly stroking the dog’s head. Your dog has just told you that it is time to give affection, and you have accepted this command. The power structure here is completely off kilter.

With the NILIF method, you ignore your dog’s imploring for affection. This doesn’t mean you can’t be affectionate with your dog, it just means you have to do so on your terms. First of all, your dog has taken it upon himself to jump on the couch without being invited. Dogs relate height with status, so he has literally given himself permission to join you at a higher status point. If you want to allow your dog on the furniture, you must make it clear to him that he is only allowed up when invited. Secondly, he has demanded pets and you immediately relented. You can pet him, but he must first work for that attention. So, next time he jumps up on the couch and noses your hand, pretend he’s not even there. Do not push him away or tell him “no”; this still constitutes attention. The metaphor I use is that one should, when one’s dog is making demands, “be a tree.” Trees don’t acknowledge, they don’t speak or move; trees are completely stoic. So, when your dog demands your attention, it’s time to be a tree until he understands that demanding attention yields no response.

It will take some time for your dog to understand what’s going on. He has probably grown accustomed to asking for attention and immediately receiving it for his entire life. He will most likely implore you with more nudges, maybe even to the point of pawing at your arm or climbing on you. Just be a tree. If your dog begins to act particularly obnoxious and you give in, you have lost the battle. If he jumps in your lap and starts licking your face, so you fold and pet him to calm him down, he has just learned that all he has to do is try harder and you will give up. Instead, when he starts to act up, get up and walk away as if he isn’t even there. You can then wait a few minutes, call him to you, make him sit, and shower him with all the love and affection you want. This is ok because it is on your terms, you have commanded him to come to you, he has worked by answering to that command and then sitting when told, and you rewarded that behavior with much desired snuggles.

As time goes by, as long as you are consistent and never give in to your dog’s demands, he will get the point that no matter how hard he tries, he won’t get anywhere unless it is on your terms. Before this occurs, however, you will probably have to face an extinction burst. “Extinction burst” is the term innovated to describe the point at which your dog goes completely over-the-top to seek your attention (or whatever he desires and is not receiving). He might scratch at your arms, he might whine and cry, he might bark at you incessantly, or even howl because he is used to getting the attention he wants when he asks for it. As long as you do not relent, this wild behavior will mark the point at which your dog figures out that he is getting nowhere with his demands.  This is an extremely important moment, because if you can’t be strong and be a tree; if you pet him just to get the craziness to stop, he will have learned that this is the level of intensity now required to get what he wants.

Another example to help you acclimate to the NILIF way of thinking occurs at doggy dinner time. You should feed your dog at the same time twice a day. A consistent schedule will help your dog be more balanced in general, and will also regulate when he needs to be walked. At each meal time, pick up your dog’s bowl and fill it with food. Then ask your dog to sit and wait, and place the bowl on the ground. If he goes for the bowl before you release him with an “ok” or “go ahead,” pick the bowl up and ask him to sit and wait again. Put the bowl down again. If he again lunges toward the food, pick up the bowl again. Continue this until your dog will sit still and wait for your command to eat. In the wild, the alpha dog eats first and decides when it is ok for the other dogs to eat. This goes a long way toward showing your dog who is the pack leader.

Eventually, your dog will anticipate that you want him to sit before he gets to eat. If he sits on his own before you ask him to, he is not really working for his meal. Ask him to lie down and wait, or shake hands, or perform any other small, simple trick, then he can eat. All that matters is that he answers to your commands before he is allowed to have his food.

Pick up your dog’s bowl after 15 minutes, whether he is finished or not. If your dog wanders off in the middle of eating, pick up the bowl and do not give it back until the next meal time. This is another way to express that you control when it is time to eat. Even if your dog just takes two bites and wanders off, take away that bowl. Don’t worry, this isn’t cruel or unsafe for your dog. Unless he has a particular health condition, your dog can miss a meal, or even not eat for a day and still be perfectly healthy. If he does wander from his bowl after eating very little, at his next meal he will be hungrier; therefore the motivation to behave properly and eat on your terms will be even stronger.

This method is fantastic for dogs who are aggressive or overly dominant, and it is also perfect for fearful, overly submissive dogs. Excessively dominant dogs will be quite happy to let go of the assumed responsibilities of pack leader when they understand that the position is not open; it means a more relaxing life for them. Especially submissive dogs will be comforted by the existence of a strong and confident leader; it will help them be less afraid and more confident in their place in life.

NILIF is also wonderful for children. Because of their size, dogs often see children as playmates rather than superiors. If you teach your children the principles of NILIF, and supervise their training interactions with your dog, both parties will be more confident, and your dog will develop a much more thorough respect for your children.

It is important to understand that NILIF is not the denial of attention, affection, food, or play. In fact, since your dog is only allowed to receive these things when you so choose, you have to be quite diligent, and make sure you approach your dog as often as possible to positively reinforce good behavior. You can (and should) give your dog as much cuddly, snuggly affection as you possibly can when it is on your terms; it will only further cement the NILIF principles.

Good luck, and remember—Don’t give in, because Nothing in Life Is Free.